Yodeling Up North

NOTE: click on the highlighted words for the FULL experience

So it isn't actually the Himalayas. It ain't even a few thousand miles close to the shores that ultimately lead to Tibet. The 8 or so hours we spent on a public bus plus 3 to 4 more hours on a craggy jeepney, 1 or so hours of which on rugged terrain, paid off when we reached the fabled town of Sagada in the Mt. Province.

Cost: We initially estimated the cost to stretch to 6k pax (where I only got to bring 5k due to some ATM card problems I had prior to departure). Actual cost, however, was roughly about 4k pax (probably due to our missing several breakfasts and lunches depending on the activities we have planned for the day). If you are planning to go, please do bring the entire amount in cash. Bring some extra if you wish to buy more pasalubong stuff.

Possible activities: from the map locally sold for about P10 everywhere, you may psyche up the kind of things your group would like to engage in depending on the luxury of time you have and the level of adventure you are willing to subject yourselves into. All tourists are advised to go to the Municipal Hall where the Tourist Center is located (where you will be asked to register yourselves at a modest P10 fee per tourist). Ask the person in charge what the rates and available activities are (they have a tariff for each). The prices that the guides would charge depend greatly on the size of your group and the kind of activity you choose. Your group may be adventurous enough to try sight-seeing out on your own (like going around town and visiting traditional Igorot houses and communities) but do get the expertise of the guides for more physically challenging activities as caving, spelunking, and rock climbing. There are simple caving tours but do try out the Lumiang-Sumaging cave connection. Only a few dare do so as most guides claimed. We did.

Almost three hours after our initial descent towards the cave entrance at Lumiang, we reached and stood over a cliff looking snotty over the fact that we knew how hard we worked to get that far: going through smelly guano, being dipped to the head in icy waters, doing slippery squeezes, and hazarding jagged rock holds. Couple all of those with the haunting thought of imagining what could possibly lurk in the shadows of the rock formations beyond the reaches of the gas lamps wielded by our guides. Picture us looking down, just observing the shorter-route cum less-gutsy cavers as they scamper about in the safe, lower regions. They, in random awkwardness, begin tilting their heads towards the high wall at our direction. Our light catching their attention, making them feel so small over our accomplishing something they haven't. Something they would not ever admit to feeling, but a reality nevertheless. A non-apparent, indescript, soul-deep feeling of great defeat that no amount of future triumph can shake off. Losers! We just let them go about their petty business while we bid our time. Waiting. As the path somewhat cleared, we then, one by one, started our descent to their levels. Individually creating routes beyond those taken by our guides. Steps sure and steady. Our individual lights flashing everywhere. Egos larger than the great old darkness that envelope the space beyond the lamps' warm illumination. Our voiceless attitudes screaming, "out of the way, bitch! And kiss the ground we walk on while you're at it!"

What we did: Our reservations at St. Joseph proved futile. The room we booked via phone did not get reflected in their records. We got a referral for George guest house which is down the same street where the Municipal Hall is, a few meters away from the Yoghurt House (really nice yoghurts) and Traveler’s Inn (quality banana with cream pancakes), and quite strategic should you want to go caving. We even saved a few bucks as the rate given us was cheaper than what we were originally quoted.

On Day 1, we headed for the caves during the day and observed All Hallow's Night at the town cemetary where firewood were lit instead of candles. An eerie yet marvelous spectacle. Day 2, we did rock climbing, some sight-seeing, and trekked our way towards the glorious Big Waterfall down in Bomod-ok. Day 3 we prepared to go back home and did some rounds at Banawe where we got to visit the Creative Pagan Museum where hundreds of sculptures and crafts are showcased in sections (farming, ritual, tools, costumes, accessories, even an erotica section).

Tips from us weary travelers: bring a light-weight jacket; travel light; bring strong flash-lights; bring your cell and cam chargers; bring thermals.

Our bodies were thoroughly beat. Our knees hurt. Our cheek-muscles worked out with the funny antics and BS stories we nonchalantly throw at each other’s faces.

It’s a worthy while of spending a long vacation.

No itineraries.

Just fun magnified several fold.

All photos featured in this post are proprietary to the author. Copyright 2005 by Fritz Tentativa. Sagada Map copyright by P.M. Stephens. All Rights Reserved.

posted by Fritz @ 12:09 AM